Krosslaug (Reykjalaug)

What to expect

Krosslaug is one of the smallest bathing spots on this site and one of the oldest in Icelandic tradition. It sits in Lundarreykjadalur, a farming valley in Borgarfjörður about 25 km (16 miles) long, on the land of the Reykir farm. Locals also call it Reykjalaug. The pool lies a short way below the Brautartunga farm, roughly 7 km (4 miles) up the valley from where the Tunguá and Grímsá rivers meet.

The pool is a small basin of hot water inside low stone walls. Those walls were rebuilt in 1980 under the supervision of Iceland’s national antiquarian, and the site is protected and fenced. Trees planted around it form a small grove, so you do not see the pool from the road. Water temperature is usually given as 104-109°F40-43°C. There is room for three or four people, and that is with some shuffling.

Do not come expecting facilities. There is no hut, shower, toilet or bin. People change among the trees. What you get is a hot soak in a quiet green corner of a valley that few tour buses visit.

The story behind the name

Krosslaug means “pool of the cross”. According to Kristni saga, when Iceland adopted Christianity at the Althing in the year 1000, the men from the west of the country refused to be baptised in the cold water at Þingvellir. They chose to be baptised in this warm pool instead, on their ride home. A memorial sign at the entrance to the grove repeats the story in Icelandic and Latin: “Hér voru vestanmenn skírðir árið 1000” (here the westerners were baptised in the year 1000).

That history is the reason for the protection, and it shapes how locals see the place. Treat it more like a small chapel than a hot tub.

Two places called Krosslaug

There is a second Krosslaug in Iceland. On Barðaströnd in the Westfjords, the natural pool next to the Birkimelur swimming pool is also mapped and signed as Krosslaug, and it carries a similar baptism legend. If you are driving the Westfjords coast on Route 62, that is the one you will pass. We cover it on the Birkimelur pool page. This page is about the original Krosslaug in Lundarreykjadalur, which is the one the Icelandic Wikipedia and most Icelandic sources mean by the name.

Getting there

Lundarreykjadalur lies between Borgarnes and Þingvellir National Park, and Route 52 (Uxahryggjavegur) runs through it. Krosslaug is on the north side of the valley close to Brautartunga, where Route 52 meets Route 512 to the Lundur church.

• From Borgarnes and the Ring Road: Head inland to Route 52 and follow it up Lundarreykjadalur toward Brautartunga. Borgarnes is about 34 km (21 miles) away as the crow flies, so expect a longer drive by road.
• From Þingvellir: Take Route 52 north over the Uxahryggir pass and down into the valley. Þingvellir is about 28 km (17 miles) away in a straight line, but the road climbs over open moorland.
• From Reykjavík: Either route works as a day trip. The pool is about 53 km (33 miles) north-east of the city as the crow flies.

There is a small parking area by the road. From there, look for the memorial sign at the edge of the grove and follow the path for about 50 m (55 yards) to the pool. The path is short and easy in summer but can be wet or icy.

Parts of Route 52 are gravel, and the Uxahryggir section is high and exposed. Check road.is or the Umferdin app before you set out, especially from October to April.

When to go

Krosslaug is outdoors and open to the sky, so you can visit at any time of year if the road is passable. The bigger issue is space. With room for only three or four people, a single car of visitors fills it. A 2021 visit described in a local guide found three men in the pool and one more sitting in the creek beside it.

• Summer (June to August): Easiest driving and long light, but the most competition for the pool.
• Spring and autumn: Quieter. The grove gives some shelter from wind.
• Winter: Short days, possible ice on the path and snow on the Uxahryggir road. Go only in settled weather.

If the pool is full when you arrive, wait for a gap or come back later. Do not squeeze in on top of others.

Rules and etiquette

There is no warden, and no list of rules posted online. The site is protected and on farmland, so the usual Icelandic norms apply with extra care:

• Respect the site. It is a protected heritage pool that many regard as sacred. Keep voices low.
• Swimsuits on. This is the norm at every Icelandic bathing place, and the pool is near a public road and a working farm.
• No soap or shampoo. There is no shower, and anything you add stays in a very small pool.
• Do not move the stones. The walls are part of the protected structure.
• Take everything away. That includes cans, bottle caps and food wrappers. There are no bins.
• Share the space. Keep soaks short when others are waiting.
• Park considerately and do not block farm gates or tracks.

Where to stay nearby

There is no camping or lodging at the pool. Options in the area:

• Borgarnes: The nearest town with hotels, guesthouses, supermarkets and fuel.
• Reykholt and the Reykholtsdalur valley: To the north, with guesthouses and the Krauma spa at Deildartunguhver. See our Krauma page.
• Þingvellir National Park: Campsites inside the park, reached over Route 52 from the south.

Brautartunga, just up the road, has a small unstaffed swimming pool with an honesty box for a small fee, built in 1964, if you want a longer swim.

Safety notes

• Heat: At 104-109°F40-43°C the water is hot enough to make you lightheaded. Get in slowly, keep soaks short and drink water.
• No supervision: Nobody checks on the pool. Do not bring small children here, and never bathe alone after drinking.
• Footing: The path and stone edges get slippery. Wear sandals or shoes to the pool.
• Water quality: This is untreated natural water in a small basin with no outflow control. Keep your head above water.
• Weather and roads: The valley and the Uxahryggir road can change fast in wind and snow. Carry warm clothes in the car.

Nearby stops worth adding

Across the Tunguá river, a red metal pipe bridge leads to Englandshver, a set of hot springs where a tepid pool was once used for swimming lessons. Further up the river is Englandsfoss, a waterfall of about 8 m (26 ft) near the abandoned England farm. Lundarkirkja, a church on the old pilgrim route to Skálholt, stands on a site that has had a church since the 11th century; the current building dates from 1963. North of the valley, Reykholtsdalur has the Deildartunguhver hot spring, the historic village of Reykholt and the Hraunfossar waterfalls.