Birkimelur Pool (Laugarneslaug)

What to expect

The pool at Birkimelur is a small community pool on the south coast of the Westfjords, in the farming district of Barðaströnd. It sits at a place called Laugarnes, close to the Birkimelur community hall, and goes by both names. Vesturbyggð, the municipality, and the Westfjords tourism office list it as Laugarneslaug. Travellers usually call it the Birkimelur pool.

What you get is simple. There is a concrete swimming pool where you can swim a few lengths or just float, and a smaller natural pool a little lower down, closer to the shore. Both look straight out over Breiðafjörður, the wide bay that separates the Westfjords from the Snæfellsnes peninsula. On a clear evening the view is the reason to stop.

The pool is owned and looked after by Ungmennafélag Barðastrandar, the local youth and sports association. It is not a staffed leisure centre, and the facilities are basic: changing rooms, showers and the two pools. There is no café, no shop and no hot tub complex. Treat it as a quick, unfussy soak on a long driving day.

The operators do not publish a water temperature for either pool, and we have not found a reliable figure. Expect swimming-pool warm in the main pool and test the smaller shoreline pool with a hand before you get in.

Getting there

The pool is just off Route 62 (Barðastrandarvegur), the road that runs along the south coast of the Westfjords between the Brjánslækur ferry terminal and Patreksfjörður.

• From the Baldur ferry at Brjánslækur: Drive west on Route 62 for about 16 km (10 miles), roughly 15 minutes. The pool is beside the Birkimelur community hall.
• From Patreksfjörður: Take Route 62 east over the Kleifaheiði moorland pass and down to the coast. It is about 41 km (25 miles) and takes around 40 minutes.
• From Reykjavík by road: The drive is long, close to 470 km (290 miles) by road. Most people break it up, or take the car ferry Baldur from Stykkishólmur across Breiðafjörður to Brjánslækur, which calls at the island of Flatey.

Route 62 along Barðaströnd is paved, but the pass to Patreksfjörður can see snow and strong wind well outside winter. Check road.is or the Umferdin app before you set off. Park beside the pool and community hall.

When to go

This is a summer-only pool. The Westfjords tourism office gives the season as 1 June to 15 August, and Vesturbyggð lists daily hours of 09:00 to 21:00 during that period. Outside those dates, assume the changing rooms are locked and the pool is not being looked after.

June and July are the best months. The days are very long and the light over the bay lasts late into the evening.

Ferry arrivals may bring a short burst of visitors as cars come off Baldur and head west. If you want the pool to yourself, time your stop away from the ferry.

If you are visiting outside the season, plan on the larger municipal pools in Patreksfjörður or Tálknafjörður instead, and contact Vesturbyggð for their hours.

Rules and etiquette

The rules are the same as at any Icelandic pool, even a small one run by volunteers.

• Pay before you swim. Vesturbyggð lists a single ticket at ISK 1,700. The tourism office describes a donation box by the changing rooms. Either way, the money keeps the pool open.
• Shower without a swimsuit first. Wash thoroughly, then put your swimsuit on. This is a firm rule at every Icelandic pool, small or large.
• Swimsuits are required. This is a family pool, not a clothing-optional spring.
• Children under 10 should be with a swimmer aged 15 or older, in line with Iceland’s general pool rules.
• Leave it clean. There are no staff tidying up after you. Take your rubbish with you.

For questions about opening, Vesturbyggð lists Svanhildur Björk Gísladóttir as the contact (+354 866 5045), and the Westfjords tourism office gives the youth association’s numbers as 846 9474 and 456 2040.

Where to stay nearby

Barðaströnd has a handful of farm guesthouses rather than towns. The Westfjords tourism office lists Bjarkarholt, Gistiheimilið Strönd, Hagi 2 and Mórunes among the places to stay in the area. Book ahead in summer, because there are not many beds on this stretch of coast.

Patreksfjörður, about 41 km (25 miles) west, is the nearest town with a supermarket, fuel, a municipal pool and several guesthouses. It is also the usual base for Látrabjarg and Rauðasandur.

Near the ferry, Flókalundur at the head of Vatnsfjörður has a hotel and campsite.

Safety notes

• Remote area: Services are thin along Barðaströnd. Fill up with fuel in Patreksfjörður or before the ferry, and carry food.
• No lifeguard: The pool is not supervised like a city pool. Do not leave children alone in the water.
• Weather: Wind off Breiðafjörður can be cold even in July. Bring a warm layer for the walk from the changing room.
• Footing: The smaller pool is closer to the shore and the surroundings are less finished than the main pool. Watch your step on wet concrete and rock.
• Road conditions: Kleifaheiði can be foggy and windy. Drive it slowly and check conditions first.

Nearby stops worth adding

The pool fits naturally into a loop of the southern Westfjords. Rauðasandur, a long beach of reddish-gold sand, and the bird cliffs at Látrabjarg are both reached from the Patreksfjörður side. Heading east from the ferry, the road climbs toward Dynjandi, the largest waterfall in the Westfjords. If you came over on Baldur, a stop on Flatey on the way back is worth the extra time.