Dunton Hot Springs

What to expect

Dunton Hot Springs is not a hot spring you drop into on a road trip. It is an entire old mining camp in the San Juan Mountains, at about 8,900 feet on the West Fork of the Dolores River, that has been turned into a small, expensive, all-inclusive resort. The hot springs are one part of the stay, along with log cabins, a saloon where meals are served, and a valley of meadows and aspen with almost no one else in it.

The history is real and well documented. A miner named Horatio Dunton settled the homestead in 1885, close to the Emma, Smuggler and American mines, and the camp grew to a few hundred people. A post office ran from 1892 to 1954. In 1895 Joe and Dominica Roscio founded a ranch here and turned a saloon into a bathhouse for miners. The town emptied, came back as a cheap hippie hangout in the 1970s, and was a ghost town again by 1990. In 1994 German art dealer Christoph Henkel bought it, and he and a group of investors restored the buildings and moved in other historic cabins. Uncover Colorado repeats a local story that Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid passed through after robbing a bank in Telluride.

The pools

The spring comes up at about 107-108°F42°C from vents in red sandstone and shale. Wikipedia describes the water as low in minerals compared with other springs around Rico and mainly calcium bicarbonate. Uncover Colorado lists five pools in total, between roughly 85 and 106°F29 and 41°C.

• The bathhouse: a historic log building with an indoor pool, which Denver7 describes as about 5 feet deep, plus a cold plunge, a hammock and a loft for sitting. The resort says the bathhouse is always open to guests, and two time slots each day can be booked for private use.
• Outdoor pools: shared soaking pools and a tub, fed by the same spring.
• Private pools: the Well House cabin has its own hot spring pool and cold plunge. The Dunton Store cabin has a private outdoor hot spring tub in summer.
• The original spring is still visible at the highest point in town, according to the resort.

The resort does not publish a clothing policy. In the 1970s and 1980s, nude bathing was common here, according to Wikipedia; today it is a guest resort with families, so pack a swimsuit and ask if you are unsure.

Getting there

Dunton is at 8532 Road 38, Rico, CO 81332, though it is a long way from Rico by road.

• By car: Leave Colorado Highway 145 between Dolores and Rico and turn onto County Road 38 (West Fork Road). The resort is about 21 miles up that road, and the last 8 miles are dirt that climbs steadily into the mountains. A normal car can manage it in dry weather, but drive slowly and allow extra time after rain or snow.
• By air: The resort lists drive times of about 1 hour from Cortez (CEZ), about 1 hour from Telluride (TEX) in summer and 1.5 hours in winter, about 2 hours from Durango (DRO), and about 2.5 hours from Montrose (MTJ) in summer or 3 hours in winter.
• Private transfer: The resort can arrange an SUV or van. For 1 to 6 guests, it lists $498 one way from Cortez or Telluride and $660 from Durango or Montrose. For 6 to 10 guests, $654 and $864.

Cell service is limited, so download directions before you leave the highway.

When to go

Dunton is open all year, and soaking works in every season.

• June brings green meadows, wildflowers and high water in the river.
• Late September is aspen season, one of the busiest times to book.
• Winter means snow on the cabins and steam off the outdoor pools. Activities shift to snowshoeing, skiing and dog sledding. February and March usually have the deepest snow and bright days.

Because there are only 14 cabins, dates sell out well ahead, especially in summer and fall.

Prices and booking

Soaking is included with an overnight stay, and the resort is built around guests. Key points from the operator:

• All-inclusive: stays include all meals and drinks, both non-alcoholic and alcoholic, except a reserve list. Meals are served in the saloon or outdoors in good weather.
• Rates: per night, based on two guests, and shown when you check availability. They are not posted as a fixed table. For scale, Wikipedia cites 2018 rates of $630 to $2,100 per night.
• Day visits: the resort says it offers day and overnight packages. Denver7 reported lunch-and-soak packages from $115 and dinner-and-soak packages from $175 when the property is not full, but the article is undated and the current site does not list a public day pass. Contact reservations@duntondestinations.com or call (866) 976-4397 before you plan a day trip.
• Buyouts: the whole town can be rented for weddings, retreats or family reunions.
• Discounts: a 20 percent discount applies when you book at least two nights at Dunton plus two nights at another Dunton Destinations property.
• Activities: some are free, others are guided and booked separately. They include hiking, horseback riding, fishing, mountain biking, rock climbing and 4WD tours, with skiing, snowshoeing and dog sledding in winter.

Where to stay nearby

The resort itself is the place to stay. Its 14 cabins range from one-bedroom units such as Geysir, Forge and Echo to large multi-room houses such as Potter House and Tipping. Christy’s Tent is a canvas tent with a stove and shower.

If Dunton is booked or out of budget, Burro Bridge Campground in the San Juan National Forest sits on the road a few miles northeast of the resort. The towns of Rico, Dolores and Telluride have more lodging, and Telluride has the widest choice.

Safety notes

• Altitude: The resort sits near 8,900 feet. Hot water and thin air can make you dizzy. Drink water, go easy on the included alcohol before soaking, and get out slowly.
• Cold plunges: Moving between a hot pool and a cold plunge is a shock to the body. Skip it if you have heart problems.
• The road: The 8 miles of dirt on County Road 38 can be slick after storms and in winter. Use a vehicle with good tires, and drive it in daylight if you can.
• Remoteness: Cell service is limited and medical help is far away. The resort keeps a landline for emergencies.

Nearby stops worth adding

The resort points out a small geyser, a tepid sulfur spring nearby that bubbles up about every 45 minutes, reached on a forest trail. The Lizard Head Wilderness lies just north of the valley, with long day hikes toward its peaks. On the way in or out, the town of Dolores has the Anasazi Heritage Center, and Mesa Verde National Park is within reach of Cortez.