Doe Bay Resort & Retreat

What to expect

Doe Bay Resort & Retreat is a waterfront property of cabins, yurts and campsites at the eastern tip of Orcas Island in the San Juan Islands. It has a long countercultural streak. In the late 1960s and 1970s the land was the Polarity Institute, a center for an alternative therapy, and the resort still runs a garden café, a yoga studio and an open-mic night. Seattle entrepreneur Joe Brotherton and his wife Maureen bought it in 2003 and have rebuilt the spa and many of the buildings since.

The soaking area is why it shows up on hot spring lists, so here is the important part: Doe Bay is not a hot spring. The resort’s own FAQ says its tubs use well water that is naturally high in sulfur and that they do not qualify as hot springs. The water is heated and cleaned with a saltwater conversion system, which generates a small amount of chlorine. You may notice the sulfur smell. If you have a chlorine sensitivity, factor that in.

With that settled, the spa is a pleasant place to spend an afternoon. Outdoor soaking tubs and a sauna sit next to a creek-side deck looking toward Otter Cove, with outdoor showers, a changing room and a restroom. A grassy area called the Serenity Garden is part of the spa. The whole spa area is clothing optional, in private and communal sessions alike.

The spa

There are two ways in, and both must be booked.

• Communal soak. A 3.5-hour session, either 9:30 a.m. to 1 p.m. or 3:30 p.m. to 7 p.m. You can come and go during your session. You share the tubs, sauna, deck and garden with other resort guests. $30 per adult, $15 per child 12 and under. Only lodging guests and Friends of Doe Bay members can book these.
• Private rental. A 90-minute session with the whole spa to yourselves, for up to 15 people. $150 per session. This is the only option for off-site visitors, and only when there is a last-minute, midweek gap.

After you book lodging, the confirmation email includes a link to the spa booking system. Spa sessions open up to four weeks ahead, and if your stay is further out the resort emails you when booking opens. If no spa slots are available and your trip depended on it, you can cancel the lodging within 24 hours of booking without penalty by contacting the spa coordinator.

You get a gate code by email or from the front desk. The entrance is the ADA back gate on the trail down to Otters Cove; the front gate stays closed. An intercom at the gate connects to the front desk.

Pets are not allowed in the spa, even on a private rental.

Getting there

Orcas Island is reached by Washington State Ferries from the Anacortes terminal, about 80 miles north of Seattle. Summer sailings fill up. WSDOT releases vehicle reservations in stages, about two months ahead, again two weeks ahead and again two days ahead, so book as early as you can.

From the Orcas ferry landing, the resort says the drive to Doe Bay takes about 40 minutes. You go north to the village of Eastsound, then east and south past Moran State Park and the hamlet of Olga to Doe Bay Road. All roads are paved.

There is no shuttle. Without a car, use an island taxi, the scenic shuttle or a rental car. Foot passengers can also arrive by water taxi from Skyline Marina in Anacortes. Boaters can book one of the resort’s private mooring buoys ($15 an hour or $55 a night). There is no public dock, and Otter Cove is too shallow for boats.

When to go

Doe Bay is open all year. Summer (June 16 to September 15) is peak season, with the highest rates and a five-night minimum if you book more than a month out (three nights inside a month). From September 16 to June 15 the minimum drops to three nights booked far ahead, or two nights booked within a month.

Fall and winter are wet and dark early, but a sauna and tub session suits that weather. Shoulder-season midweek stays give you the best chance at spa slots without a fight.

Prices and booking

2026 nightly rates vary by season. A few examples from the resort’s rate table:

• Drive-in campsites: $61 in winter, $72 in spring and fall, $97 in summer.
• On-grid yurts: $106 to $181.
• Rustic cabins (no water): $83 to $191.
• Deluxe cabins with kitchen or kitchenette: about $153 to $485.
• Group houses (Boathouse, Retreat House and others): $323 to $1,488.

Stays of five or six nights get 15% off, and seven nights or more get 25% off. Check-in is at 4 p.m. and check-out is at 10:30 a.m. Quiet hours run from 10 p.m. to 8 a.m. Pets are allowed in campsites, yurts, domes and some Upper Field cabins for $25 a night (or $25 per reservation for campsites, yurts and domes), and must be arranged in advance. Spa sessions are paid separately.

Where to stay nearby

• On site: cabins, yurts, domes and campsites, plus a guest kitchen, bathhouses, a general store and the Doe Bay Café. The café is open to the public, and dinner reservations are required in summer.
• Moran State Park, a few miles west, has state park campgrounds and the road and trails up Mount Constitution. The resort has trail access to the park’s eastern trails.
• Eastsound is the island’s main village, with inns, restaurants and groceries.
• Obstruction Pass, south of Olga, is the nearest public beach.

Safety notes

• Hot tub, not hot spring. The water is heated and chlorinated like a normal hot tub. Keep sessions reasonable, drink water and cool off between rounds.
• Chlorine sensitivity. The saltwater system still produces some chlorine. If you react to it, check with your doctor first.
• Children. Kids can join communal sessions at the child rate, but the spa is clothing optional and shared with other adults. Decide whether that suits your family.
• Ferry timing. Missing a sailing can cost you hours. Arrive at Anacortes early, especially on summer Fridays and Sundays.

Nearby stops worth adding

Drive or hike up Mount Constitution in Moran State Park for one of the widest views in the San Juans. Paddle from Doe Bay with a local kayak outfitter; the resort lists tours on its activities page. Offsite paddlers can launch from the resort beach for $25.