Conundrum Hot Springs

What to expect

Conundrum Hot Springs is the soak you earn. It sits at about 11,200 feet near the head of Conundrum Creek, inside the Maroon Bells-Snowmass Wilderness in the White River National Forest, with high ridges on every side. The water comes out of the ground at roughly 122°F50°C and cools as it runs through rock-lined channels into the pools.

The main pool is the one everyone remembers. Wikipedia describes it as about 15 feet across and roughly 4.5 feet deep, which is deep enough to stand chest-high. It usually sits a little under or around body temperature, about 98-100°F37-38°C according to the sources we checked, and the smaller pools around it tend to run a little cooler. That is warm rather than hot, but at this altitude, with cold mountain air on your shoulders, it feels right.

This is a wild spring with no facilities. There are no toilets at the pools, no trash cans and no ranger station. You carry in everything you need for a night or more in the wilderness, and you carry everything out again. Clothing is optional and nudity is common.

Popularity is the reason for all the rules. For years Conundrum was crowded with campers, trash and human waste. Colorado Public Radio reported on the waste problem in 2017, and the Forest Service moved to a permit system with reserved campsites to bring use under control.

Getting there

The trailhead is a short drive from Aspen.

• From Aspen: Head west out of town on Highway 82 to the roundabout about half a mile from downtown and turn onto Castle Creek Road. Follow it about 5 miles, then turn right onto Conundrum Road and drive about 1 mile to the trailhead parking lot.
• From I-70: Leave I-70 at Glenwood Springs (Exit 116) and take Highway 82 east through Carbondale and Basalt to Aspen, then follow the directions above.

The Recreation.gov permit page notes that trips starting in the Maroon Scenic Area need a separate parking or bus reservation. The Conundrum Creek trailhead is off Castle Creek Road, not Maroon Creek Road, but check your permit confirmation email for any parking instructions that apply to your trip.

The hike

The trail runs about 8.5 miles one way and gains roughly 2,400 feet, from about 8,800 feet at the trailhead to 11,200 feet at the springs. It follows Conundrum Creek up a long valley through aspen and spruce, then opens into meadows near the top. It is steady rather than steep, but the length and altitude make it a full day with an overnight pack.

The old Recreation.gov zone notes describe three crossings of Conundrum Creek, with the third one a wade that can be difficult when the creek runs high in early summer. Bring water shoes or be ready to cross in boots, and turn back if the water looks too fast.

Some hikers come in from the south over Triangle Pass from the Gothic area near Crested Butte. That route is shorter but goes over a high pass and still needs the same permit for a night in the Conundrum zone.

Permits, fees and rules

Permits are the most important part of planning. The current rules on the White River National Forest’s Recreation.gov page (Maroon Bells-Snowmass Wilderness Overnight Permits):

• Permits are required year-round for overnight stays.
• Fee: $10 per person per night from May 1 to October 31. Children 16 and under are free. Each permit also has a non-refundable $6 reservation fee.
• Reserved campsites: In the Conundrum Hot Springs zone you must camp in the specific site you booked. The zone runs up the valley from Silver Dollar Pond toward Triangle Pass.
• Group size: Most permits allow up to 4 people, capped at the campsite’s maximum. If you reserve several sites, the whole group can be no more than 10.
• Limits: Two permits per person per calendar year, a maximum of seven nights per permit, and no overlapping nights.
• Booking window: Permits are released in windows and can be booked online up to the day of the trip if space remains. You cannot book into a future window before it opens, so check the “Important Dates” section on the permit page. Print your permit no earlier than 14 days before the trip, and carry it with photo ID.
• Cancellations: Full refund minus the $6 fee if you cancel at least 48 hours ahead. Printed permits cannot be changed.

Zone and wilderness rules:

• No dogs anywhere in the Conundrum Hot Springs zone.
• No campfires at any designated Conundrum site. Fires are banned everywhere in the wilderness above 10,800 feet.
• No overnight stock (horses, mules, llamas) at the designated Conundrum campsites.
• Bear canisters: Food, trash and anything scented must be stored in an IGBC-approved bear-resistant container. Rangers can ticket you and send you out if you do not.
• Human waste: WAG bags are strongly recommended and must be packed out. If you do not use one, dig a cathole 6 to 8 inches deep at least 200 feet from water, camp and trails.
• No soap or sunscreen in the pools, and pack out every scrap of trash.

When to go

July through September is the season the Forest Service recommends. The creek is lower by mid-summer, the trail is mostly dry and the campsites are clear. The Forest Service’s zone notes say two of the higher sites can stay under snow until late July in a normal year, while the rest usually clear by late June.

Summer weekends are when permits go fastest. A weekday trip gives you a better chance of a permit and a quieter pool.

October to June is winter here. Snow covers the trail, campsites and passes, and the trailhead may not be reachable. Permits are still required, but this is a serious winter backcountry trip with avalanche terrain and deep snow, and only experienced winter travelers should consider it. As of mid-October, snow is likely on the upper trail already.

Where to stay nearby

There is no lodging near the springs. Before or after the hike:

• Aspen has hotels, lodges and hostels across every price range, all within about 15 minutes of the trailhead.
• White River National Forest campgrounds along Maroon Creek Road and Highway 82 east of Aspen fill quickly in summer and are reservable on Recreation.gov.
• Basalt, Carbondale and Glenwood Springs, down valley on Highway 82, have cheaper motels and more choices.

Safety notes

• Altitude: Camping at 11,200 feet is hard on people coming from sea level. Spend a night or two in Aspen first, drink plenty of water and go easy on alcohol. Headache, nausea and confusion are signs to descend.
• Creek crossings: High water in June and early July makes the crossings dangerous. Unbuckle your hip belt, face upstream and use poles.
• Weather: Afternoon thunderstorms are routine in summer. Get off exposed ground by early afternoon. Nights can drop below freezing even in August.
• Water quality: Never drink the spring water, and keep your head out of it. Filter or treat creek water.
• Wildlife: Black bears live in the valley, which is why canisters are required. Give moose a wide berth.
• Remoteness: Help is many hours away. Carry a satellite messenger if you have one, and tell someone your plan.