Chinati Hot Springs

What to expect

Chinati Hot Springs sits in a desert canyon in the Chinati Mountains foothills, a few miles above the Rio Grande near the border village of Ruidosa. It is one of the very few places in Texas where you can soak in naturally hot water, and it feels like it. There is no town to speak of, no shop, no phone signal and no Wi-Fi. Cottonwoods shade the grounds, the stars at night are sharp, and the only noise is usually other guests and the wind.

It is a small, simple resort, not a spa. Seven cabins share a community kitchen, outdoor grills and the soaking areas. Warm mineral water feeds an outdoor shared tub and a cooler pool that is open seasonally. Two cabins have their own tubs: Numero Uno has a private outdoor tub and El Presidente has a private tub room with a small patio under a palo verde tree.

The operator does not publish water temperatures. Travel guides put the spring itself at about 113°F45°C, the shared outdoor tub somewhere between the low 90s and about 105°F41°C, and the cool pool around 70°F21°C. Treat those as rough figures. The shared tub is a warm soak rather than a scalding one, which suits the climate.

The property covers about 640 acres. A sandy wash next to the springs makes an easy walk, and there are informal trails into the hills.

History

People from both sides of the river used these springs long before there was a border here. The property has changed hands several times. The operator notes that the minimalist sculptor Donald Judd, the artist behind the Chinati Foundation in Marfa, once owned it, and that it was later run as a non-profit. The current owner is a Texan who has run it for more than ten years. You will sometimes see it called Ruidosa Hot Springs, another name for the same springs.

Getting there

This is one of the more remote overnight stays in Texas, and the drive is part of the trip. The operator asks you not to rely on GPS or Google Maps, which have sent people down the wrong roads. Download the written directions before you lose signal.

• From Marfa (paved route): Take US 67 south toward Presidio. Just before Presidio, turn right onto FM 170 toward Ruidosa. Drive 37 miles along the Rio Grande to Ruidosa and go through the village. At the far end, follow the sign onto Hot Springs Road, a gravel road that runs 7 miles and dead-ends at the property. The operator says this road is rough but does not need high clearance or four-wheel drive.
• From Marfa (Pinto Canyon Road): FM 2810 becomes Pinto Canyon Road and runs straight through to the Chinati signs. It is shorter on the map but needs a higher-clearance vehicle with good tires, and you should skip it during or soon after rain because of washouts.
• From Big Bend National Park: Follow FM 170 west through Lajitas and Presidio, then turn toward Ruidosa as above.

Plan on more than an hour from Presidio to Ruidosa and about 30 more minutes on the gravel. FM 170 climbs and drops along the river, and this is open range, so expect cattle and burros on the road, especially over blind hills. Fill your tank in Presidio or Marfa.

Do not bring an electric vehicle. The owners say the local power lines cannot carry the charging load.

Prices and booking

Everything here runs on reservations. The operator is blunt about it: no day passes, no walk-ins, and anyone who arrives without a paid booking is turned away.

Cabin prices listed on the website in 2026 (shown as starting prices):

• El Dorado and Dos Amigos: from $150, sleep four
• Las Palmas: from $200, sleeps two
• El Corazon: from $220, sleeps two
• Numero Uno: from $220, sleeps four, private outdoor tub
• El Presidente and El Patron: from $230, sleep two (El Presidente has a private tub room)
• Entire property: $1,400, about 20 people, booked by phone

Bookings are confirmed through Lodgify. Check-in is from 2 p.m. to 9 p.m.; tell the office if you will be later. Check-out is 11 a.m. with no late check-outs. Every guest signs a liability waiver, either downloaded in advance or at the desk.

Deposits and cancellations depend on the dates. From November 15 to January 15 and throughout March, the full amount is due when you book and cancellations are not refunded. At other times a 50% deposit holds the cabin, and you get a full refund if you cancel more than two weeks before arrival. Inside 14 days you lose the whole amount. Groups renting the entire property pay in full and need to give 90 days’ notice to get money back. The policy also spells out that weather, car trouble and getting lost are not grounds for a refund.

Pets are allowed, with conditions: they stay on a leash, they never go in the tubs or near the cool pool, and there is a $20 per pet charge plus cleaning fees if they misbehave. Cabins are not wheelchair accessible.

Rules and etiquette

• Bring all your food and drink. The general store has closed. Every cabin has a coffee maker and a mini fridge, and guests share a full kitchen with dishes, pots and pans. Clean up after yourself.
• Swimsuits in shared areas. Guides report suits are required in the public soaking areas and optional only in the private cabin tubs. The operator does not post a clothing rule, so ask when you book.
• Children. The website does not publish a policy on kids. Call before booking a family trip.
• Quiet nights. The cabins sit close together and share the tub, so keep noise down after dark.

When to go

October to April is the comfortable season. Days are mild, nights are cold, and a warm soak makes sense. Presidio County summers are fiercely hot, and a 100°F38°C tub is far less appealing when the air is just as hot.

The holiday window (mid-November to mid-January) and spring break in March fill early and carry the strict full-payment rules. Weeknights outside those dates are the easiest to book. In October, the Chinati Foundation’s annual weekend in Marfa also draws crowds to the region.

Late summer brings monsoon storms. Washes can flash flood with no rain falling where you are, so do not walk in a wash during storm season, and avoid Pinto Canyon Road after rain.

Where to stay nearby

You stay on site; that is the point. If you cannot get a cabin:

• Presidio, about an hour east on FM 170, has motels and the nearest groceries and fuel.
• Marfa, about two hours away by the paved route, has a wider range of hotels and restaurants.
• Big Bend Ranch State Park, reached by driving east along the river road, has campgrounds, trails and slot canyons.

The hot spring at Big Bend National Park and the spring-fed pool at Balmorhea are the other warm-water stops usually paired with a West Texas trip. Big Bend’s Hot Springs Road has been closed until further notice since October 2026, so check before you go.

Safety notes

• Remoteness: There is no cell service and no store. Bring water, food, a spare tire and a full tank. Tell someone your plans.
• Driving: Watch for livestock on FM 170 and take the gravel road slowly.
• Heat: Drink plenty of water, especially in the warmer months, and keep soaks short if you feel lightheaded.
• Flash floods: Stay out of washes when storms are around, even if the sky overhead is clear.